Fabrics and Styles

Fashions in the 13th century are discussed in a number of volumes, especially Herbert Norris's Medieval Costume and Fashion. Clothing in England and France has been the most described and depicted, but it was different than that in the warmer climes of Sicily. Similar styles of clothing were worn in Sicily as in England, but the fabrics were lighter, more cotton and linen than wool and furs. Through the extensive trade between Sicily and North Africa and the Middle East, fine silks and cottons were readily available in the markets. Distinctions in clothing were relevant to one's class and occupation. For a working woman like Ysabella or Larissa, the daily costume included an undergarment or sheath (chemise,kirtle), a simple gown or robe girded at the waist, and an apron to help keep the gown clean. Sleeves could be rolled up for working. Hair was usually braided and pinned up and covered by a simple scarf. Clog-like wooden shoes made in the shoemakers' district were worn by everyone--Just the thing for working in the garden or traversing rain-soaked dirt streets. Of course, our middle class women would also have had fancier duds for important occasions, along with leather boots or slippers, jewelry and headdresses. A good description of such garments may be found in "Murder at the Leopard" when Ysabella and Angelica invite Ferdinand to the Leopard to negotiate purchases of wine.