Monday, June 30, 2014

Men in skirts and tights

Medieval fashion for men is fairly commonly seen in old movies and period stories. They wear belted tunics and hose with leather shoes/boots/slippers, often a cloak or hat. (Think Robin Hood, Monte Python). Basically, the tunic was a long, loose shirt that slipped over the head, usually over a lighter-weight similar undershirt. The neck had an opening along one shoulder or down the breast bone that might be closed with laces, hooks, or pins. Sometimes the sleeves were cut as part of the garment itself, but sometimes added later along the side seams. The tunic became more popular in the East after the decline in popularity of garments that wrapped around the body. You see both styles in Medieval pictures. Women's dresses were of similar tunic-like design, dropping to the ankles or the floor, and perhaps a little more form fitting. A person's social status was revealed in clothing by the amount of embroidery decorating the piece, furs used as trim or lining, and the type of material used. Peasants were more likely to dress in homespun linen or cotton, while royals had silks, velvets and brocades. Clothing was adapted to the weather by adding extra layers or using heavier materials such as wool, fur and leather instead of cotton and linen. Although the basic tunic style didn't change much, "fashion" as we know it today was expressed by details of garment construction like how long or tight the sleeves might be, how full the skirt was, how many buttons it had (more about buttons next time). But pantyhose for men? Before elastic was invented? In the picture below, you can see that the hose were tied to the men's underwear, called braies--basically boxer shorts with drawstrings at the waist. Ties and laces were used in many ways in medieval clothing, but this simple solution eluded me as I thought about those tights. The picture also shows basic tunic designs and footwear, hats, and gloves.

Above, a church garment that details tunic construction; Below, menswear of medieval times

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